We provide specialized winterization services to safeguard your pool during the off-season, and when spring arrives, we handle the thorough opening process.
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We provide specialized winterization services to safeguard your pool during the off-season, and when spring arrives, we handle the thorough opening process.
If your swimming pool loses water faster while the pump is running, the leak may be connected to pressurised pipework, return lines, filtration equipment or another part of the circulation system. Absolute Pools provides pool leak detection and repairs across Cape Town and surrounding areas.
When the pool pump runs, it draws water from the pool and pushes it through the filter, chlorinator, heating system and return pipes. This creates pressure inside parts of the plumbing system.
A weak pipe joint, cracked fitting, damaged return line, leaking valve or faulty equipment connection may only release water while that pressure is present. Once the pump switches off, the leak can slow down or stop completely.
The escaping water may be visible near the equipment area, but underground return-line leaks can disappear beneath paving or into the surrounding soil without creating an obvious puddle.
The pressure side of a swimming pool system begins after water leaves the pump. It includes the pump outlet, filter, chlorinator, heater, return pipes, valves and return jets.
Because water is being pushed through these components, a damaged section can release water whenever the pump operates. In some cases, the leak is only a slow drip. In others, water may spray from a fitting or escape underground in larger quantities.
A pressure-side leak often causes the pool to lose more water during the filtration cycle than when the system is switched off.
Return pipes carry filtered water back to the swimming pool. If one of these underground pipes is cracked, split or poorly joined, water may escape whenever the pump creates pressure.
The leak may occur beneath paving, garden areas or concrete around the pool. Wet patches are not always visible because the water can drain into the soil.
A damaged return line may cause steady water loss during the filtration cycle while the pool level remains more stable overnight with the pump off.
Return jets are the openings through which filtered water re-enters the pool. The pipe connection, fitting body or seal around the return jet can deteriorate over time.
Water may escape behind the pool wall while the system is running. Cracks around the fitting or movement in the surrounding surface can also affect the seal.
If the water level eventually settles close to the height of a return fitting, that area may need closer inspection.
Pool filters operate under pressure and can leak from the tank, multiport valve, lid, drain plug, unions or connected pipework.
A small filter leak may appear as dampness or staining around the equipment area. A more serious fault can release a noticeable amount of water every time the pump operates.
Cracked filter tanks require careful attention because they are pressurised while the system is running.
A faulty multiport valve can allow water to escape through the waste line while the pool is set to filter.
This problem may not be obvious if the waste pipe drains into a garden, stormwater outlet or another location away from the equipment area. The pool can lose water whenever the pump runs even though no leak is visible near the pool.
Water flowing from the waste outlet during normal filtration is a strong sign that the valve, seal or internal components may need repair.
The pump itself may leak from the outlet connection, housing, unions, seals or drain plugs.
Some pump leaks become worse once the system reaches normal operating pressure. Water may drip onto the equipment base, run into nearby soil or evaporate before the size of the leak is noticed.
Wet marks, mineral deposits and staining around the pump can help identify a long-standing leak.
Salt chlorinators are installed after the filter and operate on the pressure side of the pool system. Leaks can occur around the chlorinator cell, unions, housing or nearby pipe connections.
A small chlorinator leak may only appear when the pump is running. Cracked housings or damaged connections can worsen over time if they are not repaired.
The chlorinator should also be checked if the pool is losing water and the unit shows flow errors or stops operating correctly.
Pool heat pumps and other heating systems contain water connections that can leak under pressure.
Water may escape from inlet and outlet unions, bypass valves, internal components or connected plumbing. The leak can be mistaken for condensation, especially around a heat pump.
Normal condensation usually produces clean water beneath the unit during operation. A plumbing leak may continue in a more concentrated area, affect the pool level or leave chemical residue behind.
Solar pool heating systems send pressurised pool water through panels and pipes, often positioned on a roof.
Damaged panels, loose connectors or split pipes can release water whenever the solar system is active. The leak may appear as water running from the roof, damp walls or unexplained water loss during daylight filtration cycles.
Solar heating valves and bypass plumbing should also be included in the inspection.
Pool systems often contain several valves, elbows, unions and glued pipe joints. Age, movement, poor installation or previous repairs can cause these connections to leak.
A joint may remain dry while the pump is off but begin dripping or spraying once pressure builds.
Visible equipment-area joints are usually easier to assess than underground connections, but both can cause significant water loss over time.
A pool that leaks while the pump is on may show more than one symptom.
You may notice that the water level drops mainly during filtration hours, paving becomes damp after the pump starts, the equipment area stays wet, water flows from the waste line, or the pool loses less water on days when the pump is not running.
Other signs can include soil movement, sinking paving, reduced return flow, unusual filter pressure or water appearing near heating equipment.
The pattern of water loss is one of the most useful clues. Comparing the pool level after a day with the pump running against a similar period with the pump off can help narrow down the problem.
Many pools run their filtration cycle during the day. If the pool loses more water during daylight hours but remains relatively stable overnight, the pump schedule may be revealing a pressure-side leak.
This pattern can be especially noticeable when the pump runs for several hours at a time. The longer the system remains pressurised, the more water may escape.
Solar heating can also increase daytime water loss if damaged panels or roof-level plumbing are involved.
A pool that loses water on filter mode but not while the pump is off may have a leak in the return system, filter, chlorinator, heater or pressure-side plumbing.
Check whether water is escaping through the waste line during filtration. A faulty multiport valve can send water to waste even though the handle is positioned on filter.
The equipment area should also be checked while the system is running because some leaks stop immediately when the pump switches off.
Water loss during backwashing is normal because pool water is intentionally discharged through the waste line.
The concern arises when water continues flowing to waste after the valve has been returned to the filter position. A worn spider gasket, damaged valve or internal sealing problem may allow water to keep escaping.
The valve should be operated only while the pump is switched off. Changing positions while the pump is running can damage internal components.
Visible water around the pump and filter area should be investigated while the system is operating.
The source may be a pump seal, union, valve, filter fitting, drain plug, chlorinator connection or a pipe joint. Water can run along pipes and equipment surfaces, so the wettest point is not always the original leak.
Long-standing equipment leaks may leave white, green or brown mineral deposits around the affected connection.
A return-line leak beneath paving can wash away bedding sand and weaken the support below the surface.
Over time, paving may sink, crack or become loose. Coping near the pool edge can also move if escaping water affects the surrounding ground.
The damaged pipe should be located as accurately as possible before paving is lifted. Opening a targeted area reduces unnecessary disruption and reinstatement work.
A pressure-side leak does not always produce visible water above ground.
Water may drain into sandy soil, move beneath paving or follow underground trenches away from the damaged pipe. Cape Town properties also vary in soil and drainage conditions, affecting where escaping water becomes visible.
The absence of a wet patch does not rule out a return-line or underground plumbing leak.
Yes. Even a small leak can result in substantial water loss when the pump runs for several hours every day.
A steady drip may appear minor during a quick inspection, but the total loss can become significant over a week. Larger leaks at pipe joints, filters or return lines can lower the pool level much faster.
The water loss may also increase as seals deteriorate or cracks expand under repeated pressure.
Yes. A pool can have more than one leak, and a shell or fitting leak may continue regardless of whether the pump is on.
However, a clear increase in water loss while the pump runs points towards the pressure side of the system. The pool shell, skimmer, light and fittings may still need assessment if the pool continues losing water after the circulation system is switched off.
The full pattern should be considered before repair work begins.
Mark the pool water level and monitor it for a set period with the pump operating normally. Refill the pool to the same mark, then observe it for a similar period with the pump switched off.
Use comparable weather conditions and avoid swimming, backwashing or adding water during the test.
If the pool loses substantially more water while the pump runs, a pressure-side leak becomes more likely. This comparison does not locate the leak, but it can provide useful information for the inspection.
The pump should not be left off for an extended period if the water is already green or the pool requires circulation.
Switching the pump off may temporarily slow the water loss, but it does not repair the problem.
Without circulation and filtration, the pool can become cloudy or green. Chlorine distribution becomes less effective, debris remains in the water and algae can develop.
A pressure-side leak should be diagnosed and repaired so the pool can return to normal filtration without wasting water.
The investigation begins with the water-loss pattern and the pool’s operating schedule.
The pump, filter, chlorinator, valves, heating equipment, visible plumbing and waste line are checked while the system is running. Return fittings and surrounding paving are also assessed for signs of movement, dampness or leakage.
The system may be observed at different pressures or with selected components isolated where appropriate. When the leak appears to be underground, targeted pool leak detection can help narrow down the affected pipe or area before access work begins.
The repair method depends on the location and condition of the damaged component.
Visible equipment leaks may require new seals, unions, valves, fittings or pipe sections. Filter and chlorinator leaks may need component repairs or replacement if the housing is cracked.
Underground return-line leaks may require a section of paving or concrete to be opened. The damaged pipe is repaired or replaced before the area is tested and reinstated.
Heating-system leaks may involve external plumbing, valves, panels or internal equipment components.
Repair is usually suitable when the equipment is in good overall condition and the leak is limited to a replaceable seal, fitting or connection.
Replacement may be more practical when a filter tank, chlorinator housing, valve body or heater component is cracked, badly aged or repeatedly failing.
The decision should consider safety, reliability, replacement-part availability and the likely cost of future repairs.
Water escaping under pressure can worsen more quickly than a slow static leak.
The leak may erode soil, damage paving, affect nearby structures and place unnecessary strain on pool equipment. Constant topping up also dilutes salt, chlorine and other pool chemicals.
Repairing the fault early can reduce water waste and prevent a plumbing repair from becoming a larger paving or renovation project.
Absolute Pools assists with pools that leak while the pump is running across Cape Town and surrounding areas, including the Northern Suburbs, Southern Suburbs, Atlantic Seaboard, Cape Town City Bowl, West Coast suburbs and Helderberg.
Service areas include Durbanville, Bellville, Brackenfell, Kraaifontein, Parow, Goodwood, Milnerton, Table View, Parklands, Blouberg, Century City, Pinelands, Rondebosch, Claremont, Newlands, Constantia, Tokai, Wynberg, Plumstead, Hout Bay, Sea Point, Green Point, Camps Bay, Somerset West, Strand, Gordon’s Bay, Stellenbosch, Paarl and surrounding areas.
Absolute Pools assesses the full pressure side of the circulation system, including return pipes, filters, valves, chlorinators, heating equipment and visible plumbing.
We assist with pool leak detection, pipe repairs, filter repairs, equipment repairs, solar heating repairs, heat pump repairs and related paving work.
Our focus is on identifying where the pressurised system is losing water and recommending a practical repair rather than relying on repeated topping up.
A pool that loses water mainly during the filtration cycle may have a pressure-side plumbing or equipment leak.
Contact Absolute Pools for pool leak detection and repairs across Cape Town and surrounding areas.